Good morning from Santa Fe, NM.
"Two of the greatest gifts we can give our children are roots and wings" Hodding Carter
Wow, there is so much to share with you. The past three days have been simply incredible, and packed to the brim with magnificent views and friendly people. I have to tell you that southern Colorado is just one of the most beautiful parts of our great country. The smell of rain on sage in the early morning adds to your sensory overload. Mountains reaching the blue sky with ominous cumulus nimbus clouds dancing in the distance provide vistas unseen elsewhere.
Let's step back to three days ago as I departed Pueblo heading to Walsenburg, CO. It was a great day to ride. Scott had provided directions that would allow me to sample their city trail winding around the Arkansas River. After leaving the trail I ventured south of Pueblo on a nice frontage road. I stopped and chatted with Carlos from Denver. He was out for his daily run and we talked about the trail and the beauty of seeing a city from the trail side instead of a highway.
Eventually I was forced to accept traveling on a low volume interstate highway.
Surprisingly, I felt safe as traffic levels were low and you had a bonus of dealing with just one way traffic. Also, the highway has an excellent shoulder and large "bicyclist" signs help alert drivers to your presence. I finally arrived in Walsenburg and enjoyed a good nights rest.
Leaving Walsenburg, I headed west towards Fort Garland. Today's ride would encompass the most serious climbing of my bicycling career. North La Veta Pass, at 9413 ft, taxed my capabilities to the maximum. You can't believe how much your muscles can burn and ache but with perseverance you finally make it to the top. What a feeling of accomplishment! You have achieved something, that looking at from the bottom view seemed near impossible.
Along the way, I met Dick Zimick, a former rancher from Montana, who was living a new chapter of his life in Colorado. This Korean war veteran, at age 72, showed a new zest for developing an old run down commercial property. Individuals like Dick are the heart and soul of our nation.
Good luck with your venture Dick, and stay safe when riding the Harley.
After a long days ride I finally arrived in Fort Garland. It was a Friday evening and I quickly got a room at the Fort Garland Motor Inn. While checking in I had the pleasure of meeting Anna, who along with her husband, owns this motel. She was originally from Poland and moved to Chicago about thirty years ago. She is most engaging lady with a strong European personality.
It's hard for me to grasp the reality of moving from Chicago to Fort Garland, CO. Talk about a real adjustment in life style!
I showered and relying on Anna's recommendation headed across the street to a fine little cafe.
The "Algon" featured a wide selection of food variety, but pizza seemed to be the right call for this particular night. While at the table, I called Cathy, and briefly described the days climb and assured her I was in a safe place for the evening.
Immediately, I was summoned to the adjacent table to join Jerry and Terri Sanders.
They reside in Florida, and also have an isolated mountain property here in Colorado.
I just have to tell you that our dinner went on for a couple hours, and I quickly discovered that Jerry and Terri are truly an amazing couple.
Along the journey of life we meet people who rise above adversity and go on to achieve great success. That evening In Fort Garland, I found myself seated next to one of the most incredible individuals that I have ever met in my life. You see, Terri is in an elite group of achievers who have personally completed walking the entire Appalachian Trail. (2172 miles). This was the first time I ever met anyone who had achieved this monumental goal.
Terri and Jerry first met in grade school, raised families, and then reconnected later in life and were married. Talk about two energetic souls who have such a passion for life, and especially life in the outdoors. Jerry is an accomplished marathoner who actually proposed to Teri while crossing a marathon finish line. Can you top that for being unique?
You can reach Terri's website via Trailjournals.com (or maybe .org).
Her hiker moniker is "Bumpkins". I can't wait to read about her exciting journey from Alabama to Maine.
Can you imagine, walking 2172 miles? Throw in the obvious logistical dangers, and did I mention she "camped" on this adventure. Terri, you add a new dimension to the saying, "simply incredible". It was so nice spending time with two wonderfully amazing individuals.
God bless you Jerry & Terri.
PS: Thanks for buying my pizza. Cathy and I will treat you to dinner when you come to Minnesota. Enjoy the rest of your vacation in Colorado.
(I just love your automobile license plates; ATHKER. How clever.
Now, on to Saturday morning...
After packing the bicycle I visited with Anna and learned more about life as a motel proprietor.
I'm certain you meet all kinds of people in that business. And even some characters who may be difficult to handle. We parted and I began cycling south to San Luis.
Riding conditions were ideal as I navigated south in this scenic valley. Surrounded by mountains you felt safe and a nice tail wind propelled me onward.
Suddenly, up ahead I could discern a group of people walking towards the south. As I approached it was obvious this was some sort of organized walk. Sure enough, I learned that it was a pilgrimage of young and old walking sixteen miles to the Stations of the Cross Shrine at San Luis. I extended greetings and took a few photos.
Thanks to that favorable wind I arrived in San Luis in just a little over an hour.
Now, here is a prosperous looking town that also serves as a county seat. Quickly I located the library, but alas, it was closed on Saturday's. So after a quick snack I bicycled over to the Shrine entrance.
For those of you not familiar with The Stations of the Cross, these fifteen (some churches have 14) stations depict Christ's passion and trace his steps to death and resurrection. Beautifully designed bronze sculptures are used to characterize the events. It was a reassuring experience as I climbed the mountain side, pausing at each station, and finally reaching the top. A small chapel sits overlooking the lush San Luis Valley. In this chapel people prayed and visited with other climbers. I offered a prayer for all those who suffer in this world.
Then, it was back on the road heading south to Taos, NM.
This proved to be a long ride (81 miles) and I arrived just near dark.
When I last visited Taos in the early nineties, it was a small quaint "adobe plaza town".
Today, although the heart remains, it has succumbed to growth prosperity. New developments surround the community and traffic levels were high. Despite the traffic, I still have a fondness for Taos, and recall my first visit to the town in the late eighties. That was a motorcycle trip with my dear friends Tom & Phyliss. Is it possible that twenty years have come and gone since that first visit?
After dinner on Saturday night (at the restaurant BRAVO), I walked over for a milk shake (it was just dessert) and ran into a fellow bicyclist named Steve.
Steve, dressed in full mountain biking garb, had just completed a 67 mile mountain bicycling event that included over 15,000 feet of climbing. Talk about endurance! He looked no worse for the wear, and in fact was headed to Moab, UT the very next morning for another event.
Steve, I'm certain you did a great job with that ride, too. Have a safe trip back to your home town of Bend, OR.
Departing Taos on Sunday morning...
Of course some rain has to fall on every one's parade, and that it did on Sunday morning.
After loading the bicycle, I lingered in the Super 8 lobby nursing another cup of hot java.
Eventually, I had to go outside into the rain and begin pedaling. Full rain gear on, I said OK, let's do it. The forecast was for showers and thunderstorms all day.
About five miles into the day the sky cleared and low and behold it turned into an outstanding day. Picture this, you are riding alongside the Rio Grande River Gorge with warm sunshine and incredible vistas surrounding you. What a super nice day! Hey, weatherman Paul Douglas, in Minneapolis, isn't the only meteorologist who occasionally gets it wrong!
It's hard to describe just how beautiful this day was as I meandered from town to town.
Along the way, I stopped by the Rio Grande Gorge Visitors Center and visited with Melinda.
Melinda and her husband, Ray, are from Dayton, Ohio (Cincinnati Bengal fans). They are in year number four of a different type of retirement life. They serve as volunteers for the National Park system and reside full time on the property. They have enjoyed several different assignments including one in Key West, FL.
Keep up the great work Melinda and Ray. What you do makes such a difference to all of us using the parks. Note: Make it a point to get out sometime soon and visit a park. You and your children will enjoy it.
A few hundred yards due north of the Visitors Center was a neat looking restaurant, gift shop, and rafting drop-off point. This fine establishment is operated by Rico and his wife Eva.
I can testify that Rico makes the "Best Burrito in NM". It was so tasty, and those wonderful beans. Oh Yea!
Rico and Eva have three beautiful children, Evita, Diego, and Simone. You will see a photo of them posted later today.
Then it was back on the bicycle winding my way down alongside the mighty Rio Grande River.
White water rafters and kayakers populated the river. Campers and hikers could be seen enjoying the beautiful surroundings. All in all it was truly a magnificent day.
At the town of Velarde, I stopped for some fresh fruit. This area is a lush valley with many orchards and fruit stands. I purchased a large beautiful peach and inquired if I might wash it off first (see, Mom you trained me well). A gentleman directed me around the house to a faucet.
Well, the faucet looked like an old manual pump well, so I proceeded to start pumping.
All of a sudden someone started laughing at me, and I was instructed to just raise the handle and the water would flow.
An interesting foot note, Judy Velarde can trace ownership of her land back back to the time of the Spanish settlements. Her surname is the same as the town. It seems that one of her great-great-great-great-great-great-great- grandfathers worked for Juan Donate who was one of the Spanish Army leaders. One thing is certain, this valley fed by the Rio Grande is really lush and green.
As I approached the city of Espanola, I saw a sign for a DQ. That sounded like a super choice for Sunday lunch. Sure enough 9.3 miles later I was enjoyed a hot dog (mustard and relish) and a large Vanilla Shake. As I looked outside those dark clouds seemed seemed to get closer and closer. And yes, it started pouring rain.
My day that had started wet, changed to dry and beautiful, was once again really wet and super windy. Back on the bike it was a slow boat to Santa Fe.
Mega uphills coupled with that nasty head wind made for slow progression.
Then, unexpectedly, while riding in the rain near the town of Arroyo Seco, I had flat tire #2.
Fortunately, I was close to Jose's Service Station and quickly ducked inside to get out of the rain. It was another one of those thorn type spikes that flattened the front tire. No problem, I quickly removed the wheel and replaced the tube. Jose even rewarded me with a complimentary bottle of orange juice.
Finally, just after dark I arrived at my brother-in-law's home.
Chip is the best brother-in-law in the world. I love him dearly!
He is a talented world traveler, who knows a lot about arts and culture, as well as American Indian history. I love spending time with Chip.
Also, outside to greet me in the dark was Chip's long time friend George.
As many of you know, I met George last year on the Grand Canyon trip.
I immediately realized that George would be a wonderful person to bicycle with.
So, after lots of planning, George and I will be bicycling together from Santa Fe, to his home in Scottsdale, AZ. It's going to be a blast.
George has a superb sense of humor so you never know what may happen along the way!
There you have it! You are current on the trip.
Hey, it's time for some R&R right here in Santa Fe.
